Bio-dynamics, Lambrays, Remoissenet, Francois Freres

"How can you talk about terroir when your soil is full of poisons?"

This is the question Bernard Zito, a bio-dynamics consultant here in Burgundy, put forth as he lead a lecture on biodynamics among the vines in Les Reignots, just above La Romanée (not a bad classroom setting...the view is a little distracting). Since 2000 the practice of biodynamic growing has taken off in Vosne-Romanée. Bio-dynamics is based on the interrelationship of the plants and the soil, eliminating the use of artificial chemicals and relying instead on natural preparations and even the lunar phases.  The transition away from weed killers (and other vineyard chemicals) means that the vine roots need to go down deep into the soil, since they have to compete for nutrients. Stress is good (for vines). Vineyard workers also benefit from natural treatments as opposed to chemicals that can cause health problems for them down the road. 

Me in class with La Romanée behind me and village of Vosne-Romanée in the background. 

Next up, a visit to Domaine du Clos des Lambray where we tasted the 2008 Clos des Lambrays (the Domaine's Grand Cru monopole) from barrel. The wine is shaping up to have solid structure and very complex flavors. Last summer there was a hailstorm in July, so yields were lower. Winemaker T. Brion has crafted a very solid wine that is shaping up nicely. The wines at Lambrays get added structure from the stems, as they practice whole-stalk fermentation here. Tasted the 2007 Clos des Lambrays which was bottled in April. Explosive nose, elegant wine with complex flavors. Then the 2006..friendly red fruits typical of this vintage with added complexity from some liquorice and spice in there and an elegant structure. Then out came the 1996 - wet leaves, black cherry, sweet spices. Love these wines!

Had a very special visit at Remoissenet where the very entertaining Bernard Repolt showed us around. Tasted alot of wines here, here is the list:

2008s from barrel: St. Romain, Pernand-Vergelesses, Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot, Meursault 1er Charmes, Montrachet (!), Beaune 1er Greves.

And then..

Beaune 1er Greves 2007

Volnay 1er Santenots 1997

Beaune 1er Les Toussaints 1987

Pommard 1976

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Laveaux St. Jacques 1966

The damage at Remoissenet. Thank you Bernie.

Visited the Francois Fréres Tonellierie which produces barrels for many winemakers in Burgundy and abroad. We got to wander around the factory where seasoned wood planks become artisanal crafted barrels ready for shipment to cuveries.

Fascinating.

Finished the CFPPA program on Friday. Five days of incredible visits, tastings, lectures...all of this counting as "school" so that I can now go on to work vendage as a student (as opposed to a foreign laborer, which is a complicated visa situation). Now everyone goes off in different directions to be stagieres.

The "grads" at La Viti Beaune

Now its time to get to work over at Alex Gambal..

Helped out with bottling last week. That's Alex on the right. 

We are bottling a batch of the St. Aubin Dents du Chien 2008 magnums and half-bottles by hand.